WINE ALL THE TIME: Trouble in the Okanagan

While we have been experiencing an unusually “warm” and snowless winter, that hasn’t been the case elsewhere in Canada. The Maritimes have just been hit with a storm bringing up to 150 cm. of snow, and on the other side of the country, the Okanagan region has had a freezing spell that could have a devastating impact on the wine industry.

In the third week of January, temperatures plummeted to well below -20° C. and remained there for days. This kind of cold can kill not only the primary growth of buds but the secondary and tertiary growth as well. When that happens, no grapes.

Global News on January 19 reported that, according to Wine Growers of British Columbia, a cold weather event in 2023 impacted about 50 per cent of vines last year, and production was only about a third of what is normally expected for some wineries. This event may be even worse.

In some places, the temperature got so low that not only were buds killed off, but the vines themselves could be lost.

We usually think of the Okanagan region as being a relatively warm one, and the wines it produces tend to be more favoured for their “California-like” qualities than our cool-climate Ontario wines.

For many years, the industry there has been booming with the number of wineries mushrooming from about 8 in the 1980s to well over 300 as of last year. Weather events such as the deep cold snaps and forest fires, along with the economic downturn related to COVID-19 may have put pause to all that. Tourism has been off considerably.

Kate Dingwall, writing in The Wine Enthusiast, reports that currently 25 per cent of the region’s wineries are for sale. The speculation is that rapid expansion, overplanting and maybe planting the wrong types of varietals are also factors in the sell-off. Dingwall even questions the Okanagan’s chances of survival.

In her article, there is even the suggestion that hybrid varietals might be the way to go. I think that this might be an overreaction. Certainly, these are confusing and troubling times weather-wise in many parts of the world. The impact of Climate Change is certainly being felt.

There are some ironies in all this. With Global Warming, winegrowers all over the world have been experimenting in determining which grapes they should be planting that are more suited to the hotter climate, introducing warmer weather grapes, let’s say from southern Italy or Spain and Portugal to regions like Bordeaux and Champagne.

To suggest that because of these cold snaps the Okanagan should be changing directions might be a little premature.

Reflecting on what has happened in the Okanagan, we might ask what about Ontario?

As opposed to the Okanagan, Ontario has long identified itself as a cool-climate grape-growing region and consequently has oriented itself as such in terms of varietals planted and vineyard management. 

Probably the greatest factor in “winter protection” is the lake effect, as the huge bodies of the Great Lakes store up heat in the summer and give that heat up to the atmosphere in the cooler seasons. The same factor plays out in the Traverse City wine region with Lake Michigan moderating the winter temperatures.

This protection is definitely felt in the Niagara Bench areas, and in the lower areas such as those near Niagara-On-The-Lake, wind turbines are used to bring down the warmer air when needed. Marc Pistor, maker of Fogolar Wines in Niagara, explained to me, that the wind turbines might not be nearly as effective in the Okanagan, however, because of the slopes and the topography.

Decades ago, a winter kill greatly reduced yields in Niagara, and that is when this technology was introduced. At the same time, the government allowed wineries to bring in juice from other countries in order to make wine. That, I believe, was the start of what is now marketed as “International Blends” in Ontario.

I expect that wineries and grape growers in B.C. and around the world will be grappling with the challenges of Climate Change and unexpected atmospheric events for the foreseeable future and beyond. There will be adjustments and adaptations, but as a whole, I am hopeful that wine-making in the Okanagan will prevail.

Wine Tasting

Stokely Creek Lodge will be hosting a Valentine’s Wine Tasting this Saturday, Feb. 10 starting at 5:30. Three of the wines are Ontario wines that are highly rated internationally, while three are fascinating French wines. I will be introducing the wines, each of which will be accompanied by a tapa plate, with the first wine, Henry of Pelham’s Cuvée Catharine sparkling wine, being served along the way with oysters before you even reach the Lodge!

The tasting is limited to 40 people, with the cost of $55 per person plus tax and gratuity.

Please call Stokely Creek Lodge at 705-649-3421 to make your reservations.

Feb. 3 Vintages Release

This release is particularly interesting for Sauvignon Blanc enthusiasts and for a cross-section of different red wines from South America.

New Zealand has become the site of choice for Sauvignon Blanc, with Marlborough as the most admired area. Villa Maria Earth Garden Sauvignon Blanc 2022, $20.95, is described as delicious on the palate with a satin texture then core flavours of citrus and white-fleshed fruits, some tropical fruit layers and crisp dry finish.” 93 camdouglasms.com.

In France, the Loire region, particularly Touraine, is noted for this varietal. Vallée Loire Touraine Sauvignon Blanc 2022, $16.95, “offers a lovely mix of citrus, melon gooseberry and mineral nuances” – classic SB flavours – along with “exotic tropical fruits and lime accents which burst onto the lively finish.” - 91 international winerepoort.com.

From Chile we have the Indomita Gran Resserva Sauvignon Blanc 2022, $15.95, which James Suckling, having identified sliced apples and grapefruit pith on the nose, tells us to expect a wine that is “medium-bodied and crisp with an edgy, pungent feeling to it” 89.

South American reds cover most of the popular French varietals in prices from $15 to $28.

There are four Malbecs all scoring in the 90’s, with Finca Decero Remolinos Vineyard Malbec 2019, $22.95, offered as “Wine of the Month. It has “a “floral, loam-laced core of dark plum and cherry flavours, which meld with concentrated mineral and spice notes mid-palate. Ends with notes of dark chocolate.” It was #23 in the Wine Spectator’s “Top 100 Wines of 2022” – 92.

There are two fine Pinot Noirs, one from each of Chile and Argentina, each at $17.95. Leyda Coastal Vineyard Las Brisas Pinot Noir 2022 from Chile is described as a “complex fruit-forward Pinot” with “tart, vibrant freshness…and a chalky texture.” – 93 – vinous.com.

In addition to Cabernet Sauvignons and Carmenères, there is a vegan blend, the Emilian Novas Stellar Selection Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah/Carignan 2021, $17.95. There is “lovely purity here with plenty of cherries, wild herbs and a hint of graphite and stones. Really juicy and bright…long and transparent.” – 94 - jamessuckling.com

February 17 Vintages Release

White

Picnic White Wine 2021, $13.95, is a Spanish white made from the Verdejo grape which has aromas similar to Sauvignon Blanc, but a rounder body reminiscent of Viognier. Vintages references notes of “peach skin, lime and beeswax.”

Cantina San Paola Fiano 2022, $15.95, is a white wine new to us from Campania. Vintages tells us it is a grape seeing a resurgence for its combination of “full-bodied rich flavours and waxy texture accentuated by brisk acidity and salty minerality on the finish.”

Red

Tombacco Aglianico Del Beneventano 2021, $14.95, is a winner with smooth dark fruit, hints of tobacco and herbs, along with vanilla oak notes. What’s not to like?

Tenacity Old Vine Shiraz 2021, $18.95, is made by the excellent Two Hands Winery in Australia with grapes sourced from a number of regions. Here is a rich wine plump with juicy black fruit flavour notes of mocha and spice, and a lovely smooth texture. Terrific now, it has the stuffing to last for several years.

Viña Casablanca Itera Seaside Journey 2021, $21.95, is an intriguing Chilean blend of Pinot Noir (think Burgundy) Merlot ((think Bordeaux), Barbera (Think Italy) and Grenache (Think the South of France or Spain!). It is made not only in wood but also in clay amphora and concrete. It is a “wine that is savoury, grippy, and perfumed, with some whole bunch spice and flavours of black cherry and raspberry.” - 93 – timatkin.com