Wine All the Time: Trends to watch for in 2024

As we enter the new year, it is common that various media outlets will give their predictions on trends. As elsewhere, this is definitely true for wine.

One trend I have encountered is the increasing market for low-alcohol and no-alcohol wines. People who are diet-conscious or concerned about over-consumption are certainly interested in this category.

Further, Health Canada recently adjusted its guidelines drastically regarding consumption. Whereas previously it was advised that men consume no more than three drinks a day, or 15 a week, the current limits have been shifted to one or two drinks per week for low risk of harm, three to six for a moderate risk, and over seven representing an increasingly high risk.

Such guidelines are certainly scary, and in more ways than one, sobering. This can help us recognize why the industry’s push to low or no-alcohol drinks might have traction.

That said, I recently tried a new Pinot Grigio and a new Cabernet Sauvignon in this category, and I was not impressed. They were priced at about $17. At best, I would say that they were wines for desperate times…

Over the past few years, wine production has fallen off. There are a number of reasons for this, including climate phenomena such as fire and floods that have impacted on grape growing.

Another factor is labour shortages. As the work is seasonal and physically demanding, with working conditions, pay and treatment of workers sometimes less than optimal, fewer people have been willing to take on the tasks. Hostility towards migrants, be it in the United States or Europe, has also impacted on the “Labour Pool.”

The “shrinkage” in wine production, however, is more at the lower end of the scale, with higher-priced wines maintaining their levels, generally, or even increasing them. I haven’t seen a real analysis of why this might be so, but it likely has to do with the relative costs of production.

At the lower end of the spectrum, it may be just too costly at times to produce wines which don’t generate enough return per bottle. At the higher end of the scale, costs may either be relatively the same, or the price per bottle is enough to make the production expenditures manageable.

One “trend”, at least among higher quality producers, is to take better care of its workers, providing a living wage, better working conditions and housing, and even grievance procedures. While this is the way it should be, it will be a more accessible goal for wineries or corporations that have the structure and wherewithal to absorb the costs and still turn a profit. Those that can manage this will secure for themselves a stable workforce, and everyone wins.

One interesting concept gaining coverage is Regenerative Viticulture. As reported in a January 2021 article in Seven-Fifty Daily by Stacey Briscoe, a “major distinguishing factor of the regenerative farming philosophy is the emphasis on restoration, which translates to a hyper-focus on topsoil and cover crops.”

Tom Gamble of Gamble Family Vineyards in Napa Valley explains “that by increasing biodiversity, improving the water cycle, enhancing the ecosystem, and supporting biosequestration –capturing and storing greenhouse-gas carbon dioxide emissions, the regenerative farm strengthens the health of its own soil and increases the earth’s resilience to climate change.”

Using cover crops and livestock in the process of “holistic grazing” with little or no tilling results in a much healthier environment. Eric Sussman, of the 42-acre Radio Coteau Estate in Sonoma claims the approach allows for a more hands-off approach in the cellar as well, resulting in wines that are ”more restrained in style but have a notable and more pronounced character,” writes Briscoe.

Some, such as Rudy Marchesi of Montinore Vineyards in Oregon, have reservations, believing that it is just “new packaging” for what has already been going on in the world of biodynamic and organic farming. He believes that “biodynamic certification remains the international gold standard in farming best practices.”

Those committed to Regenerative Viticulture think that its practices and standards involve a more scientific approach than one finds with biodynamics which can involve some unusual practices such as burying cow horns full of dung, prior to employing the contents to create a slurry for fertilizing.

Whatever approach makes the best sense, employing methods that foster a healthier and safer climate, all the while resulting in good wines makes winners of us all.

January 6 Vintages release

This first release of the year abounds with bargains and values. Pick up a catalogue at the Great Northern Road store to help you check them out.

White Wine

Chateau de la Grange Veilles Vignes Côtes de Grand Lieu Muscadet 2021, $13.95, is hard to beat if you are seeking a crisp dry white, perfect for seafood. The fruit is concentrated, and writer Michael Godel explains that this adds some flesh, intensity and complexity to which otherwise can be a relatively simple wine. – 89.

Yalumba Y Series Riesling 2021, $14.95, is fairly dry with only 5 grams of sugar per litre. James Suckling tells us that the “palate has succulent acidity and delivers plenty of bright lemon flavour.” – 90. If you prefer a more traditional, medium sweet Riesling, the Loosen Brothers Dr L Riesling, $16.95, from Germany’s Mosel region will satisfy, with its 43 grams of sugar per litre balanced by its minerality and acidity.

Mission Estate Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2022, $17.95, from New Zealand may offer best value for this very popular grape, with its “vivacity, intensity and balance.” vinous.com -90. Allen Scott Kekerengu, $24.95 with a Wine Spectator 93, and Chile’s Sutil Reserve, $15.95, are two attractive alternatives.

Peter Zemmer Pinot Grigio 2022, $19.95 comes from the Alto Adige region in the north of Italy.  It made the Top 100 Best Buys for the Wine Enthusiast recently. We are told that “roasted apples, lemon peel and yeasty aromas lift from the glass of this classic mountain Pinot Grigio. Flavors of green pears and flint define the creamy palate that pops with tangy acidity on the finish.” - 92.

Red Wine

Château Grand Escalion 2020, $13.95, is a terrific buy from the much admired Gabriel Meffre in the Rhone region. Light to medium-bodied, it abounds with black fruit and spice flavours which expand and persist when you take a sip. Definitely a Four-Star value.

Nieto Senetiner Malbec 2021, $14.95 from Mendoza and Humberto Canale Intimo Selected Vineyards Malbec 2022, $15.95, are two Argentine examples that lovers of this grape should try. The former is “soft and creamy” with “ripe and mellow berry character and a firm finish (Suckling -92), while the latter is “sappy, floral and bright” with “some chalky freshness and focus, plum and red cherry fruit,” (timatkin.com- 90)

Ricasoli Antico Feudo della Trappola 2020, $15.95, is an “IGT Toscana”, with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot augmenting the Sangiovese base. We are told by Vintages that growing conditions resulted in wines of “excellent concentration and intensity. This one is big and bold, with ripe fruit, tobacco, spice, and a refined savoury character.”

Tarapaca Gran Reserva Red Blend 2021, $16.95, from Chile, is a blend of no less than 5 classic French varietals, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère, and Syrah. It is “broad and juicy” and has a long-lasting, expansive finish. – vinous.com – 93.

January 20 Vintages Release

If you miss out on wines on the January 6 release, there is still hope with the release on the 20^th.

White Wine

Colomba Bianca Vitese Chardonnay 2022, $14.95. While we see lots of Chardonnays, we rarely fine one produced in Sicily. Made from organically farmed grapes grown high in the hills of Sicily, the wine has a notable bouquet of green apple and kiwi with herbaceous grace notes of lavender. It has a round and soft mouthfeel, with an elegant acidity on the finish.

Chateau Haut-Garriga Entre-Deux Mers 2022, $15.95, from Bordeaux will appeal to those who appreciate a classic Bordeaux white as well as fans of Sauvignon Blanc. A pale yellow with light green highlights, the wine carries flavours of lemon and grapefruit with herbal accents.

Fazi Battaglia Passerina 2022, $16.95. We don’t often see this ancient grape from the Marche region which, in addition to impressions of minerality and salinity, also offers hints of peach and apricot, along with delicate herbaceous notes. It is a lively wine, balancing freshness and flavour.

The Fledge & Co Vagabond White Blend 2021, $21.95. This white from South Africa is definitely a blend, in that Chenin Blanc is supported by various white varietals from France, Portugal, and Spain. timatkin.com tells us that “fresh, zippy and understated, it has negligible oak, pear, aniseed, lemon and lime flavours and a steely, low-alcohol finish.” My only quibble is that the LCBO tells us it has 13% alcohol, which doesn’t seem particularly low to me – 91.

Red Wine

Masseria Borgo dei Trulli Primitivo 2022, $15.95, is a poplar red from Puglia making its re-appearance on our shelves. It is described by the French guide gilbertguillard.com as very viscous with impressions of “stewed black fruit”, as well as being generous and ample in the mouth. – 91.

Karl's Scepter Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, $15.95, has a lot going for it: “beautifully ripe and inviting on the nose with blackcurrant, cherry, vanillin oak and mixed spice aromas, it's succulent and generously expressed on the palate displaying excellent fruit intensity backed by fine chalky tannins.” wineorbit.co.nz – 93. Said to be at its best from 2022 to 2030, it is an attractive purchase for both current and future pleasure.

Chateau Paul Mas Clos Des Mûres 2021, $17.95, is just one of 6 reds from the South of France on this Release priced between $16 and $23, each one as tempting as the next. As “mûres” is French for blackberries, it is no surprise that James Suckling’s review starts off with blackberries and goes on to mention “cumin, dried thyme, black chocolate, tobacco leaves and black currants” on the nose. On the palate, he identifies strawberries and cherries. He affirms that the wine is full-bodied, well-balanced, and creamy. – 93.

Alkoomi Grazing Collection Shiraz 2021, $17.95, from the Frankland River region of Western Australia, has high praise from robertparker.com for being an excellent “lithe, elegant, structural, and vibrant” wine. Among the flavours identified were black cherry, blackberry, rhubarb, and raspberry. It, too, has a long “drinking window” from now to 2033 – 94.

There’s lots to choose from both on the shelves right now and on its way. Enjoy.