It may be hard to believe, but Christmas is less than two weeks away. Santa I am sure, has waxed the runners on his sleigh and the reindeer have been taking practice flights. That said, No Pressure!
In the world of wine, every site and publication is putting forth its recommendations for which wines to serve with your Holiday meal. No doubt, that meal can feature whatever dish you wish, but traditionally here in Canada and North America, the odds are that you will serve either Turkey or Ham.
My first suggestion is that you drink what you like, but that said, there are certain types of wines more suited for turkey or ham than others.
Starting with the belief that the bird has been cooked perfectly, and the meat is properly moist, what we have is going to be relatively mild in flavour by itself. With it, you don’t want a wine that is going to overwhelm it or work against it. Usually here, we think of white wines, though there are a couple of styles of red that may work well, too. It can depend on the accompaniments – the gravy, the stuffing, the condiments, etc.
A white wine should be flavourful. The acidity should not dominate. I would probably not serve a Pinot Grigio or dry southern Italian white, for example. If I were turning to Chardonnay, I would want one that has some oak, somebody to it. I would also consider an off-dry Riesling, with the sweetness nicely balanced with some acidity. While I say no to Pinot Grigio, Pinot Gris – the same grape but vinified differently – could be perfect with its richer flavours.
Otherwise, there are wines such as Chenin Blanc particularly from South Africa or Viognier, originally from the Loire area of France, wines that can be flavourful but relatively dry and suit “The Bird” nicely.
If the preference is for red, the choices are more restricted. A Pinot Noir can provide enough fruit without the tannins associated with many other reds that make a wine taste “rough”, a characteristic that could jar with turkey.
A Gamay, such as we find in Beaujolais is going to be lighter than many other reds, but it may emphasize acidity more than you encounter with a Pinot Noir. This grape can work, too.
For something different, there is a Lambrusco from north-central Italy, a wine that often is lower in alcohol and higher in sweetness, but with the sweetness off-set by the wine’s effervescence.
Another possibility is Rosé.
Here, then, are some wines to consider.
Wente Morning Fog Chardonnay, $21.95, is a “Top 100” Best Buy, and described by winepro.com as “balanced in the mouth. Flavours of luscious peach and apricot combine nicely with hints of vanilla. Meanwhile, the ample creaminess defines the palate. In addition, a superb buttery flavour rounds the mouthfeel, softening it, while the zippy acidity is refreshing and uplifting. A touch of cantaloupe is also present, as well as a slight note of tropical fruit.”
Family Tree 'The Goat Lady' Chardonnay VQA, $14.95, ($2 off) from Henry of Pelham in Niagara also has oak aging on its lees, which adds structure and body. Expect both tropical and citrus flavours, good depth, and all in all a lovely wine.
Vineland Estates Elevation St. Urban Vineyard Riesling, currently $3 off at $19.95 has a terrific pedigree. The vines, now over 40 years old, were brought to Ontario by Herman Weiss from the fabled St-Urbans-Hof vineyard in Germany’s Mosel region. Under 9% in alcohol, it carries 33 grams of sugar per litre, with flavours of peach and mango offset by notes of lemon zest and a perfect, crisp mineral finish.
Inniskillin Late Autumn Riesling VQA, $3 off at $12.95, is a longstanding example of off-dry Ontario Riesling. This has a bit more alcohol (12%) and a bit less sweetness (24 grams per litre). Wine Country Ontario gives this assessment: ”Pale lemon in colour with lovely upfront notes of citrus, pear, honey and delicate spice. A flavourful palate, it is medium-bodied and dry with a crisp, balanced finish.”
Tall Horse Chenin Blanc, $9.60 is a South African treat… and a steal. Carolyn Evans Hammond writing in the Toronto Star gives it a whopping 96, waxing poetic on its luminous appearance, flavours of lemon zest and grapefruit as well as fresh pineapple and “chiselled limestone”. It is dry but carries enough fruit to keep it delicious.
Yalumba Y Series Viognier, $14.95 is a lovely example from Australia. Vinous.com suggests that “sharply defined citrus and pit fruit aromas pick up floral and spice accents with air. Juicy and light on its feet, offering sappy white peach, tangerine and melon flavours that deepen slowly through the back half. Finishes long and silky, with lingering floral and spicy ginger notes.” – 90.
Rivarose Brut Prestige Rosé Sparkling, $19.95, could pair well with both turkey and ham. Carolyn Evans Hammond picks up on its elegance. “Sheer. With dry, airy flavours of raspberry and struck steel, toasted meringue and grapefruit zest that lingers on the finish. There are bubbles too, but they're small. Delicate. A steady stream of tiny beads that add a mousse-like mouthfeel.” - 95.
Montes Limited Selection Pinot Noir, $15.95, is a Vintages Essential (theoretically always available) from Chile.10 months spent in French oak add subtle toasted notes, as well as smoothness and complexity on the palate. Sara d’Amato of winealign.com highlights ”a modern expression of pinot noir, light in colour, juicy with acids but with the fullness of alcohol. Notably sapid and features an abundance of red berry fruit, bramble, and emphatic charm. – 89.
Gérard Bertrand Côte des Roses Pinot Noir 2022, $17.95, from France comes in its distinctive long stemmed bottle with a rose embossed in the bottom. The LCBO tells us it is ”silky and elegant, with ample raspberry and cherry fruit, bold herbal tones, and a deftly evoked oak spice.”
Angels Gate Gamay Noir $12.95, from Niagara, is a very good example of this grape known for being vibrant with some decent acidity. Raspberry and cranberry notes can be perceived, along with a little earthiness.
If you prefer a sweeter red wine, a long-time favourite has been the Chiarli Castelvetro Lambrusco sparkling red wine, $12.95, from Emilia Romagnain Italy; however, for a little more elegance, consider the Ceci Otello Lambrusco, $21.95. Soft and harmonious, it offers “intense ripe cherry, blackberry and blueberry, with licorice and vanilla accents and a fine minerality on the long, creamy finish,” according to Vintages It is a bit more alcoholic that the Castelvetro (11% vs. 8%) but has basically half the sweetness (27 grams per litre vs.50)
Turning to Baked Ham, many of the wines above would serve well here, too. Depending on whether or not the ham is glazed makes a difference. Unglazed, the Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays would be very good. In addition, a sparkling wine – preferably one that has been made in the traditional champagne manner would be a great combo.
When you consider a glaze, then perhaps a deeper but still fruity red, perhaps Shiraz, Petite Sirah or Zinfandel would serve admirably.
Apothic Dark Red, $17, from California, is based on Petite Sirah. Hefty in alcohol at 13.9%, with a respectably low 8 grams of sugar per litre, it is a bold and smooth red blend with black cherry and blackberry notes along with the suggestion of coffee and dark chocolate. Your glazed ham will love it.
3 Rings Shiraz 2021, $17.95, from Australia, may be pushing the limits but is worth considering for a glazed ham. Qwine reviews remarks on “redcurrants, choc dipped raspberries, blackberries and a cheeky blueberry hit. It coats the palate with ease leaving sheets of black pepper and Morrocan spices in its wake. Some mouth warmth lingers but it's coiled up in the spice. Good stuff.
December 16 Vintages is the last release of the year, I expect.
If you like Spanish reds, then definitely seek out the Merayo Las Tres Filas Bierzo 2020, $21.95. This was a “Best in Show” wine at the Decanter World Wine Awards for 2023 where it was described as being “deep black-red in colour and vivacious and urgent in aroma: wild plums mingled with the woodland scents of leaf, copse and forest floor. The palate is fruit-packed and vibrant, vigorous with an energy derived both from ripe acidity and fresh though smooth tannins; look out, too, for a stony, bitter-edged finish perhaps derived from the region's slate soils.” - 97.
From Italy, the Monte del Frà Lugana 2023, $24.95, from the shores of Lake Garda will give much pleasure. The winery references “the tenderness of white flowers. The crispness of sour apricots. The aroma of peach and almond. These typical fragrances of the Turbiana grape unfold from the glass, accompanied by the savory minerality of the clay and crea-rich soils of the moraine plain south of Lake Garda.” Scores consistently in the 90’s.
Viñalba Reserva Malbec/Touriga Nacional 2022, $19.95, from the Mendoza region of Argentina earned a “Decanter” 95 – “The palate has ample dark fruits, spice and violet notes, while the ripe, broad tannins manage to convey a sense of stoniness and purity. Stylish wine at a great price.”
Hola Mediterráneo Organic Brut Sparkling, $17.95, is a Spanish sparkler from the November 30 release The LCBO tells us that, “produced using 100% Chardonnay, this has good depth and character presented with an elegant litheness that makes it very appealing. Ripe and fresh with tropical fruit, pear, green apple, bread and toasted almond tones. This makes a wonderful sipping wine and will be a fine match for a variety of finger foods or seafood main courses.”
Lots to think about, lots to enjoy. Happy Holidays!