Here we are at the Canada weekend, and what better time could there be to celebrate with Canadian wines. Most of what we have available to us is from Ontario, but there are some very decent options form B.C., and even an enjoyable bubbly from Nova Scotia.
If the goal is to celebrate, we should definitely consider popping a cork on a sparkling wine… or in the case of the Benjamin Bridge Nova 7, from Nova Scotia, we just have to grab the “church key” and pry off the cap.
The winery has built a significant reputation with its focus on sparkling wine. This example is made in the “charmat” method which introduces the carbonation in a tank under pressure. At $24.95, it isn’t cheap, but it is very well made, and comes across in a style similar to an Asti Spumante, and indeed contains a good proportion of the Muscat grape in its blend. It rings in with a hefty 78 grams of sugar per litre. How sweet it is.
That said, the main attraction here is to experience a good wine produced in Nova Scotia.
There are several other Canadian sparklers on offer, however. Jackson-Triggs Grand Reserve Entourage, $29.95, has consistently impressed me as a beautiful example of a sparkling wine made in the classic method associated with Champagne. Sara D’Amato of winealign.com – a top sommelier and wine writer, and who was raised and educated here in Sault Ste. Marie – scored it a 90 for “offering an abundance of citrus and stone fruit, sprightly acidity and the calming presence of toasty, lees-derived flavours palate.” Really good stuff.
Cave Spring Cellars in Jordan is one of Ontario’s iconic wineries, and has been receiving significant international accolades recently. Their Blanc de Blanc Brut Sparkling wine, $29.95, made exclusively from white grapes, is excellent. Wine Align’s John Szabo, calls it “marvellously fresh, complex and complete, creamy and richly flavoured, featuring a fine mix of white-fleshed orchard fruit and gentle toasty character, almonds and apple blossoms.” – 92. In the Sault, you will find it at the Station Mall store.
If you are a Prosecco fan, Jackson-Triggs comes through with its Cuve Close Cuvée Sparkling Wine, currently $2 off at $13.95. It is simple and zippy, with 18 grams of sugar per litre, so just off-dry. No need to meditate on this one – just pour and party!
The LCBO has the Close Cuvée in stock, and The Wine Rack stores have both the Grand Entourage and the Close Cuvée. Currently, the LCBO is having some distribution issues, and there are some significant bare shelves. Still, many good Canadian wines are waiting to be picked up.
Ontario has a lock on Rieslings, with many top-notch choices. This is a great summer white; as well, the crisp acidity for which this wine is known is a perfect match for the summer heat. The wines are usually just off-dry, with beautiful peach citrus fruit notes.
The Megalomaniac line, from its Home Grown to its Narcissist Riesling is a good choice. The latter is currently $2 off at $16.95. Citrus and stone fruit combine with a flinty note in a pleasing fashion.
The Featherstone Black Sheep Riesling, $17.95 is a Vintages Essential, too, and always hits the right note.
A little drier than the first two is the fine Cave Spring Cellars Estate Riesling in Vintages, $19.95. It will bring a steely quality to the peach and citrus flavour profile.
If you would like to spread things out geographically, then a great bet is the Mission Hill Reserve Pinot Gris 2017 in Vintages, $22.95. BC. Writer Anthony Gismondi suggests that this is “a wonderfully textural and fresh white with citrus sprinkled ripe stone fruit and ginger spice. Very food friendly.” -89.
A gold medal winner at the National Wine awards of Canada 2018, B.C.’s St. Hubertus Pinot Blanc, just $16.95, is laden with crisp apple flavours –here’s a chance to try a grape not frequently seen in our stores.
For a very dry white, consider the Chateau des Charmes Aligoté, $15.95, on the general list. Aligoté is the “second” white grape of Burgundy, and is almost always eclipsed by Chardonnay. Still Ontario’s Chateau des Charmes has made a specialty of this grape. It is intentionally crisp and refreshing with a pear-like flavour throughout.
As for reds, Pinot Noir, Gamy Noir, and Cabernet Franc tend to be the ones that Ontario expresses best, generally, though we can’t dismiss the wonderful Baco Noir hybrid, especially as it is crafted at Henry of Pelham.
Henry of Pelham has three different Baco Noirs on our shelves, with the regular version clocking in at $13.95 – currently $2 off – the Old Vines at $19.95, and the Speck Family Reserve in Vintages at $24.95.
Baco is noted for its high acidity and ripe cranberry and dark cherry fruit with notes of smoke, leather, herb and cedar coming into play. These are “barbecue- perfect”. The better the cut or richer the style of meat, the better the quality of wine that will work.
One of the best Pinot Noir options in Vintages is the Domaine Queylus Tradition 2015, $29.95. Thomas Bachelder is the winemaker. Bachelder has a sterling reputation and is a Pinot Noir specialist. (He is now taking over the reins of Clos Jordanne, which is being revitalized by Arterra.) According to wineanorak.com, this wine has “lovely freshness with a density to the cherry and raspberry fruit. There's real concentration here with dense fruit but also some elegance.” – 94.
At the Wine Rack stores, the Jackson-Triggs Grand Reserve line is impressive. They retail in the $20-$25 range. It is rare to see a Shiraz from Ontario, but the J-T offering is quite good, though lighter in body than what we would expect in many an Australian example. Still, it is delicious, with dark, bright fruit and a perfect tannic burr on the finish. The flavours linger, a good indication of a well-made red.
The Jackson -Triggs Grand Reserve Merlot, also $25.95, took gold at the recent Canadian wine awards. It is full and lush, with dark cherry, vanilla and coffee notes. All in all, excellent.
Summer shouts out for Rosés, and Ontario does an admirable job with this genre of wine. In style,they can vary from very light to fairly full-flavoured.
The Speck Family’s Three of Hearts Rosé, $19.95, in Vintages, does a pretty good job of capturing the style of Provence – even in the shape of the bottle. Pinot Noir-based, it offers notes of raspberry and tart cherry, with the citrus bringing up the rear.
Malivoire’s Lady Bug Rosé, $16.95, give the nod to making wines in as eco-friendly manner as possible. It is noted for its texture and energy, with good red berry fruit and balancing citrus character.
Wildass Rosé, $18.95, is an irreverent contribution from Stratus to the Rosé ranks. The vibrant pink colour is matched by lively, full flavours of strawberry and even rhubarb in a wine that is dry, but not too dry. Try this one with barbecued chicken or salmon, and enjoy.
As Canadians, we have a lot to celebrate, and there are plenty of good Canadian wines with which we can raise a glass to our good fortune. Go, Canada, go!!
July 6 Vintages Release
White
Chateau Briot 2017, $14.95, new to our shelves, is a Sauvignon Blanc from Bordeaux. Vintages tells us that it “offers layers of binned apple, citrus, guava, and a touch of freshly cut grass.” Sounds just right for when we have finished mowing the lawn!
Ressi Rhein Riesling 2017, $17.95, is also a new one for us. From the respected Balthasar Ress vineyards, it offers green apple and honey on the nose and is bright with a lip-smacking liveliness on the palate. Quite dry, with just 8 grams of sugar per litre.
Novellum Chardonnay 2017, $18.95, is described merely as a product of France –but it is produced by the very reliable Domaine Lafage, and has a 92 from jebdunnuck.com. It is incredibly rich, pure and integrated, and “is a total steal for the price.”
Franciscan Chardonnay 2016, $19.95, is a blend of grapes from Monterey and Napa. It is exceptional, according to tastings.com, which says it is “a delicious, lengthy Chardonnay that balances vivid acidity and memorable toasty spices.” – 92.
Rosé
Margalh Rosé 2018, $14.95, from France’s Languedoc, is an organic wine that is, according to Vintages, “kinda funky, with aromas of rhubarb jelly, wild clover, grapefruit zest and peach cider.” Sounds intriguing, and worth taking a flyer on for just $15!
Fern Walk Rosé 2018, $16.95, from Niagara, offers notes of tangerine with tart cherry and strawberry. Lighter in style, this is easy sipping on a summer afternoon.
Domaine des Carteresses Tavel Rosé 2018, $18.95, comes from the absolute heart of the Rosé world. There are now dozens and dozens of rosés hitting our shelves, varying in style from the ethereally light to the bass drum heavy. This one is beautifully dry and vibrant, and absolutely mouth-watering. Red berry fruit and lime come to mind, and the flavours are distinct and deep. Oh, so very hard to resist!
Red
Luciano Arduini Bacan Rosso Veronese 2015, $14.95, earned a 97 from Italy’s Luca Maroni, who writes “masterful winemaking here that fully expresses the exciting character of the grapes, so richly extracted that their every nuance is majestic and sharp…One of the year’s best reds.”
Chateau Lamartine 2016, $15.95, took gold at the Concours de Bordeaux in 2017. Merlot-based, this wine is medium-full bodied, with good structure and balance. Red and black fruit is at the core with notes of cedar, green pepper, and tobacco leading to a mineral-accented finish.
Salentein Reserve Malbec 2017, $17.95, is from a winery that commands respect with every release. James Suckling believes that “the palate has a super smooth, juicy and flavourful core of smooth tannins, carrying dark-cherry and plum flavors.” – 92.
San Felice Chianti Classico 2016, $19.95, is an absolute ‘Do Not Miss’ , having been given the #19 spot on the Wine Spectator’s “Top 100” for 2018. “Expressive and smooth, this hits all the right notes, with pure black cherry, black currant and violet flavours…Fine harmony and length.” – 94.
Happy Canada Day!