Keeping the Good Earth Good
These days, there is a growing emphasis on the “organic” principle when it comes to food.
Here in Ontario the provincial government has gone so far as to mandate that even with our home gardens and lawns we must use organic approaches, as synthetic pesticides and herbicides have been banned.
It is no surprise that organic practices are also growing in the production of wine.
To merit officially the “Organic” label, there are strict practices to be observed, especially in the vineyard.
In maintaining healthy soils, crop rotation is usually an important part of the process; however, that isn’t going to work with grapes, where vines are only at there best after several years, and often are two or three decades old in the production of the best wines.
So, careful use of natural fertilizers and the control of pests and weeds by natural methods – including animals in the vineyards and scorching weeds early in the spring are important choices in growing grapes.
A century and a half ago, all farming was organic or natural.
Apparently, the industrialization of agriculture got a big boost with major wars, as the production of explosives also led to the production of chemical fertilizers and other quick fixes.
Recently, the public has become much more concerned with the impact of large scale practices, and organic methods have gained momentum.
According to the International Federation of Organic Agriculture Movement, "Organic agriculture is a production system that sustains the health of soils, ecosystems and people.
It relies on ecological processes, biodiversity and cycles adapted to local conditions, rather than the use of inputs with adverse effects."
With wine, to qualify as organic, the grapes must be grown without the use of chemical fertilizers and pesticides, and the wine must be made without the addition of substances such as sulphur dioxide (which can occur naturally to a small extent).
Sometimes, a label may say “made with organic grapes” but that leaves room for other practices in the winemaking process.
A winery must meet the standards for three years for certification.
There are a few organic wineries in Ontario, and others that follow organic practices but have not tried to qualify, such as Malivoire.
Malivoire indicates its commitment to the general philosophy by placing a small ladybug on its label.
Frogpond Vineyards, represented here in the Sault by Mary Ledlow (Vinaissance- 705-946-2503), is certified organic, while Southbrook Farms and Tawse Family Vineyards also follow Biodynamic practices.
Austrian Rudolf Steiner introduced the Principles of Biodynamic Agriculture in the 1920’s. Fundamentally, in this philosophy, the earth is seen as a living, interconnected organism, and must be respected as such and treated as such.
Organic practices are at the core, but carried to a much deeper level.
A certain degree of mysticism comes into play as the phases of the moon and the seasons are used as guides in implementing various practices.
To listen to some adherents, such as Nicolas Joly of Coulée de la Serrant in the Loire region, you really feel as if you’re in the twilight zone.
Others may be committed more to interventions at the agricultural level without necessarily adhering strictly to the astrological trappings.
Biodynamic practices are truly distinctive.
Biodynamic agriculture requires that nine different preparations have to be either sprayed on or incorporated into the compost.
For example, the bladder of a stag from a red deer is stuffed with yarrow flowers, hung in the sun for the summer, buried through the winter, then disinterred and the contents removed from the bladder and added to the compost.
Another practice involves filling a cow’s horn with manure, burying it over the winter and then adding it to water to spray on the soil in the afternoon in spring.
Vineyards go so far as to have their own cows to ensure the quality of the manure is right.
The horn must be from a cow, not a bull.
Some have tried burying the manure in tin cans or old boots, but claim it is only in the cow horn that it comes out right.
There is even a prescribed method for stirring the preparation to ensure that the mixture is correct.
Lest we conclude that the proponents are certifiable, we should know that some of the most reputable winemakers in the world believe in the efficacy of Biodynamic winemaking.
Domaine Leroy makes some of the greatest Burgundies, while Michel Chapoutier is one of the Rhone’s top producers.
There is one story of how, in a very poor vintage, Chapoutier produced some wonderful wines from one of his vineyards – but not from the rows adjacent to a neighbour’s vineyard where modern chemical practices were being applied.
Writer Monty Waldin, author of a book on Biodynamic wine, has been interviewed at Wineanorak.com/bindynamic.
He does a good job of analyzing the science behind the practices.
If you want to learn more, it is a good place to start.
This past week I tried Southbrook Farms’ “Connect” biodynamic white and red wines, both $14.95.
I was impressed by the purity of flavour, especially in the white.
The wine was juicy and delicious, and had only 9% alcohol.
It is 100% Vidal, a hybrid reminiscent of Riesling, but one showing lower acidity.
It is very expressive of the fruit, suggesting pear or apple.
The red was very good, too.
Clean, smooth and lighter in style, it had a touch of earthiness and an herbal note – mint, perhaps?
I was surprised to learn that it is a blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, because it certainly isn’t heavy, and the freshness made me think more of Gamay Noir. It is worth trying.
I have tried the Frogpond Farm Cabernet Franc, a $17 wine, and noted how clearly the character of the fruit expressed itself.
The winery descriptor mentions “forest floor”, which brings us back to that earthiness I mentioned earlier.
The organic and biodynamic farmers believe in a healthy soil.
This might be one way that that character can show through in the wine.
Most organic wines on the regular list are in the $13 range.
These include a few 1 litre tetrapacks – a Pinot Griogio white and a Sangiovese red from Ciao in Italy, and the Green Rabbit Merlot ($14.10) from France
South America is well represented with two Sauvignon Blancs, -Las Mulas and Adobe-, and a Cono Sur Chardonnay.
In reds, there’s a San Pedro 35˚ South Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot, a Fuzion Malbec Cabernet, and a Domaine Jean Bousquet Malbec.
I haven’t tried them, but they are worth exploring.
In Vintages, the organic Bonterra line out of California’s Fetzer Vineyards is well represented.
Both the Chardonnay, said to be “creamy and vibrant” and the Cabernet Sauvignon – “blackberry, mocha, dried herbs’ – are $2 off at $17.95 until November 11.
The Zinfandel, just released at $17, is described as softly textured and very fruity.
The Yalumba Organic Shiraz from Australia is $17.95.
We are told to expect pepper-spiced fruit and bright acidity.
Tawse Sketches of Niagara Riesling 2010 is $17.95.
It won the Lieutenant Governor’s Medal for Excellence, and a 91 from Wine Align’s David Lawrason who praised its freshness and intensity.
I noted; a good balance and that classic Riesling “petrol” on the palate.
While Tawse follows Biodynamic processes, it’s website mentions “conventional farming methods” for this wine.
Biodynamic or not, it’s good.
Other Vintages wines of interest include the release of highly acclaimed 2009 Bordeaux.
Two “moderately priced” examples that have been lauded are the Chateau de Cruzeau at $27.95 and Christian Moueix Pomerol for $29.95.
The former is described by James Molesworth in the Wine Spectator as “Very racy, with a sanguine frame to the delicious core of red currant, damson plum and linzer torte notes.
Long, with tar and juniper lingering through the finish. Drink now through 2018. Score – 90.” The latter is made by the same people as the fabled Chateau Petrus.
While we may think $30 is a lot of money for a bottle of wine, the 2009 Petrus is a minimum of $3300 a bottle.
The $30 bottle is full-flavoured and rated 90 in the Globe and Mail.
Pirramimma Old Bush Vine Grenache 2008 from Australia’s McLaren Vale is $24.95.
It has heady herbal aromas and delivers clean sweet cedary fruit. The flavours are tasty and extensive.
The Terra Noble Gran Reserva Carmenère 2009, $17.95, would be worth comparing to the Xplorador Carmenère 2010 on the regular list at $9.95.
Jay Miller of the Robert Parker stable lavishes praise on Terra Noble’s aromas, and suggests a “savory, spicy, medium-bodied” wine.
Meanwhile, Wine Enthusiast magazine ranks the Xplorador as #86 on its list of 100 Best Buys and says it is “full, meaty and deep…with blackberry and black plum flavors along with pinches of oregano and basil.”
Sounds like a pasta wine to me!
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