Fires and fire sales

My intention this column is to continue with the theme of “Post-Holiday Bargains” as the LCBO rolls them out with the Jan. 25 release, but the inclusion in that release of some very good examples from Australia brings to mind the terrible fires there.

In light of the over-all devastation, concern about the impact on the wine industry there might seem self-indulgent, but there should be little doubt that for large swathes of Australia’s wineries and vineyards, the consequences will be enormous. 

Even where vineyards and wineries have not been destroyed, there could be a massive impact on this year’s eventual harvest, considering the terrible pall of smoke that is drifting over the country.

With the fires in California, the harvest, for the most part, had already taken place. Not so in Australia. As the fires spread, grapes are still hanging, un-ripened and un-harvested. I am afraid that there will likely be a colossal amount of smoke taint, which may render the fruit unsuitable for wine-making.

We might not notice the results immediately, in terms of what we find on our shelves, but down the road, as vintages are interrupted and wines go unmade, I believe some absences will be noticeable.

In the meantime, we can offer some support through our purchases and know that we are the beneficiaries of those wine-making efforts.

More importantly, we can also make contributions to the Adelaide Hills Wine Region Fire Appeal or the Australian Red Cross Disaster Recovery and Relief funds, among others.  

Three new reds from South Australia can be found on the Jan. 25 release.

Sidewood Stablemate Shiraz 2016, $16.95 – having spent 12 months in French oak, the wine has fine structure, balance, concentration and depth. According to wineorbit.co.nz, the wine is “dark and brooding…brimming with rich fruit intensity on the nose with nuances of warm spice, game, cedar and cocoa.” -93.

Quarisa Mrs. Q Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, $18.95, - The Wine Enthusiast Importer Connection tells us that “the palate is bold, full-bodied and firm”, and that “fresh acidity pulls the ripe cassis and mocha flavours into a medium finish. Those who love powerful wines will enjoy this feast of a turbo-charged Cabernet Sauvignon.” -93.

Angove Family Crest Shiraz 2017, $19.95, is medium-bodied and just a whisper less dry than the two wines above. Ripe cherry and dark chocolate inter-play with spice and licorice in this harmonious red. Winecompanion.com.au –whose scores can be a little high, gives it a 94.

Turning now to the bargains mentioned at the beginning, we will see the arrival of a dozen decent wines under $15, ranging from $12.95 to $14.95. There are further good wines at $15.95, and many more in the $17 to $21 range.

In whites, the M.A.N. Padstal Chardonnay 2018 from South Africa, the Famille Sichel Les Hauts de Belair Sauvignon Blanc 2018 from Bordeaux, are both $14.95 and the De Angelis Offida Pecorino 2018 from Marche in Italy is actually $1 less at $13.95!

The Chardonnay scored 89 with the International winereport.com, which explained “the palate shows a nice minerality with lighter brioche and pear flavours. Delightful and crisp.”

Sichel has been involved in the wine business of Bordeaux since 1883. They suggest that this wine has a full mouthfeel of tropical fruits, along with peach and citrus, and its impact is fresh and persistent, with terrific minerality showing at the end.

An earlier vintage of the Pecorino earned two out of three glasses from Gambero Rosso, which is a wonderful accomplishment for a wine at this price point. Vintages says it is “floral and soft, with wonderful stone fruit and lemon zest. There’s a subtle salinity to its underlying chalky mineral note.” This is one to enjoy now with fish or hold for refreshing pleasure through the summer.

Also from Italy is the stellar Castel Firmian Pinot Grigio 2018, $16.95, from Trentino in the northeast. The Wine Enthusiast calls it “round and generous, doling out Bartlett pear, nectarine, and a hint of citrus. Tangy acidity lifts the juicy fruit flavours before a white-almond close.”  - 90.

British Columbia’s St. Hubertus Oak Bay Gewürztraminer, $17.95, is making its debut. Vintages says we can expect “classically intense Gewurz with plenty of floral, lychee, key lime and grapefruit notes, along with a sprinkling of spice.” 

The range of inexpensive reds is very impressive. It is often said that you get what you pay for. While these wines shouldn’t blow us away, they should still over-deliver and satisfy.

Provo Sega 2017, $12.95, hails from Portugal’s Duoro region. An earlier vintage gained consistent very positive reviews. 2017 was a very dry, very warm vintage in the Duoro, but the reds achieved great colour and concentration. This wine, as Vintages suggests, is “silky and ripe with good intensity of dark cherry, licorice, and sweet spices with an elegantly structured finish.” Go for it!

Terra D’Aligi Montepuciano D’Abruzzo 2016, $13.95, from Italy’s Adriatic coast will be another one of those “Sleeper Values.” There’s enough cherry fruit to create an impression of sweetness, but tannins, spice and acidity tighten this up and make it perfect for pizza and pasta, especially if there is a meat sauce involved. 

Cantina San Paolo Aglianico 2017, $14.95, hails from Campania around Naples. If you see it, grab it. Winealign’s David Lawrason says to expect lifted currants, thyme, pepper, old spicy wood and earthiness. It is medium weight, warming, drying, and thoroughly engaging. – 91.

Klippenkop Pinotage 2018, $13.95, is a red which has both forward fruit and a coffee-like impression and should appeal to anyone who appreciates this South African cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsault. ”Matured on wood for three months, it brings a touch of creamy vanilla-mocha to a core of rich, concentrated, almost jammy berry and plum.” – Vintages Panel

Lafage Cayrol Vielles Vignes Carignan 2016, $18.95, from France’s Roussillon comes from one of my “Go-to” producers, makers of terrific wines you can depend on always. Of this edition, robertparker.com writes, “Lovely cherry fruit and a mélange of savoury herbs and spices sweep across the palate. It’s full-bodied, with rich texture and firm tannins, so pair it with red meats or hard cheeses.” – 91.

On the 25^th, the shelves will be peppered with great options, and so be sure to check them out.

Two Terrific Tastings

On Sunday, Jan. 26, The Mill Steakhouse is hosting an “Aurora Borealis Pairing”, a five-course dinner based on the cuisine of Northern Europe, with which we will be pairing wines from Ontario along with a couple of surprising twists. This is the fourth such event with which I have collaborated with the Mill Steakhouse, and the young chefs have a chance to go above and beyond… and they seize it! Join us, and you will be both surprised and happy. Arrive at 6 p.m., with dinner starting at 6:30 p.m. 

Tickets are $65 per person. Contact the Mill steakhouse at 705-942-3051.

Stokely Creek Annual Valentine's Tasting and Dinner – Saturday, Feb. 15 - featuring noted winemaker Thomas Bachelder

Join us on Feb. 15, 2020, for a Valentine's Wine Tasting, appetizers and dinner. Stokely is for lovers, nature lovers, great cuisine lovers, exercise lovers and wine lovers.   

Stokely neighbours from Goulais and Sault Ste Marie are invited to join us for the wine tasting, gourmet appetizers and dinner. The whole evening, dinner and wine tasting with appetizers included, will be $80 plus tax and gratuity. If you want just the Wine Tasting without the gourmet dinner it is $35 plus tax and gratuity. Stokely overnight guests are invited to join the party for $35 plus tax and gratuity. Check the web-site for details on the wines we will be tasting. Call Stokely at 866-786-5359 or 705-649-3421 to make reservations. Limited space available. 

This year, Thomas Bachelder, who makes wine not only in Niagara, but also in France and Oregon, will be here to introduce you to some of his renowned wines. Thomas was recently given the task of rejuvenating Le Clos Jordanne in Niagara, with impressive results.