At the recent “Marconi Meets World” celebration, in July, I was able once again to touch base with Marc Pistor, Marc, as I have explained in other articles, is a “Soo Boy”, who has become a well-respected wine maker in Niagara.
Heading off to University in Ottawa with the idea of becoming a surgeon, Marc decided after just one year that he really wanted to make wine. That decision took him to Brock University to study Oenology.
Marc’s mother, Mary, had managed the Wine Rack store here in Sault Ste. Marie, and that surely contributed to Marc’s change of direction. Upon graduation he began working for the Jackson-Triggs and Inniskillin people, (now Arterra) the owners of the Wine Rack, and found himself working under Bruce Nicholson, one of Canada’s top winemakers.
In time, Marc decided to strike out on his own and launched his own label, Fogolar, honouring his Italian roots with the word used for “Hearth” in the home region of Friuli.
Cabernet Franc was, and remains, the original focus for Marc’s red wines. With whites, he was making both Riesling and Chardonnay, but recently he has decided to work exclusively with single vineyard Rieslings.
In this, Marc has chosen the two grapes which most exemplify what Ontario wine is all about. The DrinkCollab website sums up what Cabernet Franc means for Ontario:
“One of the parent grapes of both Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, Cabernet Franc has been increasing in popularity in the extreme winemaking regions of Canada, showing consistent ripening potential year in and year out while also capable of making rich, textured, and elegant wines. Cabernet Franc is expressive of its growing conditions, making for an ideal candidate of showcasing the vast differences in terroir amongst red wines.”
One of the reasons for Marc’s decision to focus on Cab Franc and Riesling was the establishment of Collab Wine and Beverage, (drinkcollab.ca.) With the assistance and co-operation of the people at Marynissen Estates Winery, Marc is “collaborating” to provide space for highly qualified “virtual” winemakers to produce small batch, hand-crafted beverages which otherwise they might not have the opportunity to create.
One of his partners in this is Max Kaiser, son of Karl Kaiser, the founding father of fine wine in Ontario and the legendary original winemaker at Inniskillin.
Marc has decided to leave Chardonnay and other grapes to his Collab colleagues, and with the support of Ridgepoint Wines is taking his Cabernet Franc and Riesling in some new directions.
His latest expression of Riesling is the 2020 Hughes Vineyard. Niagara has several micro-climates, and where the fruit is grown has significant impact on the kind of wine produced. This Riesling, from the Lincoln Lakeshore, expresses the soft and luscious fruit that characterizes the area. Mark intentionally emphasizes the sweetness here, with 25 to 30 grams of residual sugar per litre remaining. Yet, there is balance and evenness with the rich, peach-like fruit off-set by light citrus and classic Niagara minerality on the finish. It sells for $19.95 at drinkcollab.ca, as does the 2019 Hanck Vineyard, which provides a study in contrast.
The Hanck is almost steely, far drier, and reflective of the lean and racy Rieslings typical of the Twenty Mile Bench appellation with stone fruit leading to a crisp finish.
With Cabernet Franc, Marc continues to craft his excellent single vineyard Picone Vineyard marvel. The wine spent 20 months in older, more neutral French and American oak barrels. Out of 12 barrels, Marc chose just three to finish his 2019. Deep and dark and rich, it will need time to express itself, as 2019 was a leaner year. While you can expect to find flavours of black currant and anise, with some leathery undertones, you will also pick up on a suggestion of roasted red pepper. A fine wine that will be even better as it rounds into shape.
I mentioned 12 barrels. The wine that doesn’t make the cut for the single vineyard Picone finds its way to Marc’s white label, and those wines are exceptional values. A small portion of the 2021 has been blended in with the 2019 to add some depth and vitality. The wine is light to medium-bodied and juicy with brambly, bright fruit and a soft note of tannin on the finish. In all, it is pleasant, satisfying and a great accompaniment to lighter dishes. At $19.95, it is a good value.
A new and exciting direction for Marc is his line, “Finite X Fogolar”. These are very small-batch wines, just 25 cases of each. It is a ‘minimalist’ approach, with the winemaker keeping his intervention in the process to the lowest degree possible.
There are three wines: a 2019 Cabernet Franc, a 2020 Cabernet Franc Rosé, and a delicious 2020 Sparkling Riesling Ice Wine.
The Cab Franc, also from the Picone Vineyard, saw no fining, filtering or additional sulphur. The whole cluster fruit spent more than two months soaking (maceration) prior to pressing and then spent an additional 11 months in neutral oak. Taste the wine, and the impression is lively and vivid. Great depth, structured, and emphatic with good dark fruit and spice. Not even a whisper of that green stem that can characterize many Cab Francs. $24.95.
The Rosé underwent a “crazy long fermentation” on indigenous yeasts, according to Marc. In the process, it generated significant carbon dioxide, which has kept it very fresh. The fermentation was also ‘malolactic, converting apple-like sharp acidity to the softer, more mellow lactic (milk-like) acidity. Only four hours on the skins allowed just the right amount of peach-pink colour to this tasty wine. There is a creamy texture, good red berry fruit, and a long finish carrying some spice through to the end. $24.95.
The sparkling Riesling Ice Wine is delicious, with the carbonation preserved by sealing the bottles after part-way fermentation in a pressurized Charmat tank. Lush with fruity sweetness, all on a vivid palate, marked by tingly acidity at the rich finish. $49.95 (375 ml.)
For a limited time, Collab offers a package of these three wines for $79.95, including free shipping in Ontario and Quebec. Go to drinkcollab.ca to order.
Under Collab, a number of winemakers have the opportunity to bring their production to us. One is the Maenad Wine Company with Yvonne Irvine, the assistant winemaker at Creekside in Niagara. Her wines include a skin-fermented Chardonnay, a Pet-Nat Vidal made with peaches as well as the Vidal grape, then bottled before fermentation is complete, and a Piquette, made by adding water and a bit of sugar to partially fermented Sauvignon Blanc grape skins. Each is unusual and interesting in its own right.
Ev’s Eclectics feature Perrys, pear ciders made by Mitchell Everett McCurdy. One involves Pear along with Syrah grapes, another employs Dillons Gin Botanicals, and a third is made in Reposado Tequila barrels. They are $6.50 each (355 ml.).
Skinny Dipping is a line of wine created by Nick Pappas. While he is a bona fide graduate of Brock’s oenology program, Nick’s principal focus at Collab is on Sales, Marketing, and Tech. But Skinny Dipping – the 'skinny' a reference to skin-contact white, or ‘orange’ wines - is a line Nick says he has created “as a way to help those looking to dive into the wild world of orange wine. Clean, focused, and fun, these wines are full of flavour and character, and are designed for easy drinking and exploration into a new world.”
Currently, he offers a Gewurztraminer, a Pinot Gris, and a Sauvignon Blanc, each at $19.95
These are three of the unusual and intriguing projects being housed under the Collab umbrella. Check out the site for more.
A great concept with great results. Well done, Marc.
Aug. 13 Vintages Release
Well, “Aug. 13”, sort of... A number of the wines found their way to the shelves well before this weekend, but are still available at the time of writing. They include a good Spanish Rosé from Torres, the Viña Esmeralda 2021, $16.95, a Vegan offering with ample peach and ripe red berry fruit, along with a touch of rhubarb. The fruit suggests sweetness, but the wine is dry and rich.
The Henri Bourgeois Petit Bourgeois Sauvignon Blanc 2021, $17.95, is also Vegan. Three months on its lees gives added impact and intensity to this wine, with flavours suggestive of gooseberry, passionfruit, and citrus.
Chateau Haut-Mazières 2019, $14.95, is a steal from Bordeaux. Ontario’s Rod Phillips suggests that we can “look for very good fruit-acid balance here, with the fruit lively and well-defined. There's a good level of complexity and structure and, with easy-going tannins, the wine is ready to drink now through to 2025. – 92.”
Beyond the early arrivals, there are many wines offering a terrific quality-to-price ratio.
Sparkling Wine
La Fleur de François Brut Crémant de Bordeaux, $16.95, is a gold-medal offering. Vintages tells us to “expect an aromatic wine, with grapefruit, apple and pear alongside characterful notes of bread and toast from the traditional-method process.”
Brill! Extra Dry Prosecco, $16.95. Writer Natalie Maclean affirms that “on the palate, this sparkler is fresh with ripe pear, peach and soft citrus flavours delivered on a persistent mousse. Chill and enjoy with seafood appetizers.” – 88.
There are also both a Brilla! Prosecco and Brilla! Prosecco Rosé available in 200 ml. bottles, each for $6.95. Considering that this would be the equivalent of more than $22 for 750 ml., the value may be mostly in the convenience and novelty.
White Wine
Curatolo Arini Grillo, $14.95, from Sicily is a Wine Enthusiast “Best Buy” – “This crisp, tangy white has enticing aromas of sea breeze, citrus and white stone fruit. On the savoury palate, bright acidity accompanies white peach, juicy grapefruit and pineapple before finishing on hints of saline and white pepper.” – 90.
Velenosi Villa Angela Pecorino 2020, $15.95, from Marche is solid value. Vinous .com calls it “soft and round” with “vibrant acidity and citrus –tinged fruits, [along with] a bit of tropical flair” - 89.(Compare this with a “Superiore” from the Abruzzo, the Ferzo Abruzzo Pecorino Superiore 2021, $17.95. Is it more complex? Vintages suggests it is, evoking “fresh flowers, garden herbs, tangy pineapple, and crunchy orchard fruit.”)
Red Wine
Gandarada 2019, $13.95, from the Dao region of Portugal, took “Best in Show” at the 2021 Decanter World Wine Awards. Calling it sensational, the judges went on to explain that “sweet plummy freshness of youth meets something a little earthier and brooding…The ensemble is hugely characterful, tight-sewn and deep.” – 97.
Messer del Fauno Nero d’Avola 2020, $14.95, really delivers for the price. When opened, this Sicilian red may start out a bit closed and tight, but with a chance to breathe, it shows sweet dried cherry, ripe plum, and dark berry fruit accompanied by hints of spice, licorice and an earthy note. Ripe tannins bring the wine to its conclusion.
Domaines André Aubert Visan Côtes du Rhóne-Villages 2020, $15.95, “This is a quite elegant and complex grenache-syrah blend showing some grace on the palate as well as some youthful starchy tannin. The nose is fairly lifted with integrated pepper, herbal, dried flowers and plummy fruit… The length is very good.”winealign.com - 89
Basciano Chianti Rufina 2018, $16.95, comes from an area just north of the Chianti Classico in Tuscany. A higher elevation allows for slower ripening of the Sangiovese grape, resulting in softer more approachable tannins. “This is a densely textured red, rich, with vivid acidity and refined tannins propelling its black cherry, blackberry, leather, iron, woodsy and tobacco aromas and flavours. Fine balance, length and character.” – winespectator.com – 90.
There are many more tempting wines at $20 and under on this release. Pick up a catalogue at the Great Northern Road store to check them out… or just ask Jeanie!