The inspiration for this dish came from a cookbook put out by Fustini’s purveyors in the United States of a wide range of olive oils and balsamic vinegars. As long as travel into Michigan was manageable, it was relatively simple to stock up whenever we went to Petoskey. However, even before that option dried up, we discovered that basically the same products can be had right here at home with the Adoro line available at Stonehouse Wines on Queen Street.
Stonehouse has a number of different flavoured oils and balsamic vinegars in both the 375 ml. and 750 ml. sizes. An absolute essential for us is the Traditional Aged 18-year-old Balsamic vinegar, and we also consistently use the citrus mint white balsamic –wonderful on salads - and Tuscan Herb olive oil, also great on salads and very good in cooking, as with the recipe that follows.
There are many variations on this theme, including versions made with cream. Some feature chicken breasts, others chicken thighs, with or without the skin and bones.
We used boneless and skinless chicken thighs, and here is what we did.
Ingredients
- 8 boneless chicken thighs, halved. (I usually trim off some of the fat – up to you)
- 1/3 cup, all-purpose flour
- 4 Tbsp. Tuscan Herb Olive Oil
- 1 medium to large onion, finely chopped
- 4 cloves of garlic, minced
- 1 cup of low-sodium chicken stock
- 1/4 to 1/2 cups dry wine, red or white
- 2 Tbsp. tomato paste
- 1/2 cup Kalamata olives, pitted and halved
- 1 cup whole cherry or grape tomatoes
- 1 6 oz. jar artichokes drained and halved
- 1 cup roasted red pepper, drained and patted dry, cut into bite-sized strips
- 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
- 1/4 cup flat Italian parsley, chopped
- 1/2 cup freshly grated parmesan, or more, to taste
- Italian seasoning, to taste: dried thyme, oregano, basil, rosemary. (This could include a Tbsp. of chopped fresh rosemary, a couple of sprigs of fresh thyme, or freshly chopped oregano, basil, thyme, etc.
- Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste.
- 2 to 4 Tbsp. of 18-year-old traditional balsamic vinegar, to finish.
Method
Put the flour into a sealable plastic bag. Lightly salt the chicken thighs, then place them one at a time in the bag, seal it and shake to completely cover the thigh.
In a large skillet, heat 3 tablespoons of the Tuscan herb oil and sauté the chicken thighs just until browned an all side, probably 4 to 6 minutes in all. Place the browned chicken on a platter.
Add the remaining oil to the pan, and cook the onion until soft, stirring frequently. (If you need another splash of olive oil, go for it!) Add the garlic and cook for another minute. Then, stir in the broth, tomato paste, olives, artichokes, tomatoes, roasted red pepper, wine and lemon juice.
Season with the Tuscan herbs, and salt and pepper to taste. Bring to a boil.
Once boiling, return the chicken to the pan and reduce heat. Simmer, covered, for 20 to 30 minutes or until the chicken is done – internal temperature 165°F. While it is cooking, stir occasionally and turn the chicken a couple of times.
Finish with the balsamic vinegar, to taste.
To plate, it can be served over pasta or rice, or, as we did, creamy polenta. Sprinkle with the grated parmesan and with the parsley and/or other fresh herbs - thyme, oregano basil, etc.
Serves 6.
Creamy Oven Baked Polenta
Ingredients
- 1 cup coarse corn-meal (we use Bob’s Red Mill medium stone-ground corn-meal)
- 1 tsp. Kosher salt
- 6 cups water
- 2 Tbsp. of butter and 1 cup of freshly grated Parmesan cheese (optional) to finish.
Method
Pre-heat oven to 375° F.
In an oven-proof pot such as a Dutch oven, mix the ingredients (except for the butter and Parmesan), and bring to a simmer on top of the stove over high heat, whisking frequently to prevent clumping until it begins to bubble.
Then, place the pot, uncovered in the middle of the 375°F oven for half an hour.
Remove, and stir with a wooden spoon, scraping to get up bits that might be sticking to the bottom of the pot.
Place back in the oven for an additional 30 minutes. Then, remove and stir again, and place back in the oven for 10 minutes at a time, and stir to check consistency. Repeat until ready – it should like a creamy porridge - then remove and let stand for 5 minutes before serving.
(When you bring it from the oven at the last time is when you can stir in the butter and freshly grated Parmesan.)
Note: If you have trimmed up your chicken thighs and prepped the other ingredients ahead of time, you could start cooking your chicken once you get the Polenta in the oven for the first time.
Wine Suggestions
The piquant flavours in this dish call for a wine that is bright with good acidity. A really good choice is the Audacity of Thomas G. Bright Marquette 2019, currently $15.95 at the Wine Rack stores. ‘Marquette’ is a hybrid grape developed by the University of Minnesota. The cold-resistant vines were officially released for the first time in 2006. This is a lively mid-weight red with cherry/cranberry flavours. It is relatively straight-forward but very satisfying and well-suited to Italian fare with tomato and balsamic notes.
Interestingly, the companion Audacity 2019 Orange wine, $16.95, a skin-fermented white made from equal parts Pinot Grigio and Gewurztraminer, is actually very good with the Chicken Toscano. Orange wines are just starting to re-appear, though they are undoubtedly an ancient approach to white grapes. They are a bit confounding, as they may have more of a red wine impact –impact, not taste – as they are dry and carry some tannins from the grape skins. This example doesn’t seem as acidic as most white wines, and it has more density than we normally associate with white wines. It complements rather than contrasts with the Chicken Toscano, carrying suggestions of spice and citrus peel. It is a successful wine, though definitely outside our regular expectations.
The organic Piccini Orange Chianti, $14.40, is another good match. Piccini always seems to give good value, and this will satisfy you with its lifted acidity and sensation of fresh fermented grape, along with the added sensation of Montmorency cherry, soft tannins and herb.
Montecillo Rioja Crianza 2016, $14.95, is The Wine Enthusiast’s “#1 Best Buy” for 2020. We are told “Fresh berry and red plum aromas are lifted by complementary notes of oak grain and vanilla. This value-priced crianza from a very good year feels flush but primed by punchy acidity. Red plum, berry and a hint of wood spice make for a classic Rioja flavour profile, while this remains tasty and fresh on the finish.” – 90.
November 14 Vintages Release
White
Loosen Brothers Dr. L Riesling, $14.95, from the Mosel is a Vintages Essential, and I expect that this will be the 2019 Vintage. It is consistently good, and the 2018 is #26 on the Wine Enthusiast’s “Best Buy” list for 2020. Expect a refreshing and harmonious, elegant and racy wine that is balanced, off-dry, and delicious.
Feudo Maccari Olli Grillo 2019, from Sicily, is a winner. The 2017 sold for $15.95, and I expect this will be close. The Wine Enthusiast gives the 2019 a 90, and tells us that “Aromas of white stone fruit, hawthorn and sea breeze lift out of the glass on this crisp, elegant white. The tangy, savoury palate features ripe pear, yellow apple and Mediterranean herbs before notes of citrus and saline close the finish.”
Joseph Cattin Riesling 2018, $16.95, from Alsace will provide a stylistic contrast to the example for Loosen Brothers. Here, according to Anne Krebiehl MW, “Fresh yellow-apple notes are subdued on the nose of this wine. The juicy palate offers fresh red and yellow apple and vivid lemony freshness. The finish is dry and appetizing.” – 88.
Redstone Chardonnay 2016, $19.95, is the product of fruit selected from vineyards on Niagara’s Beamsville Bench. Sommelier Jon Steeves wrote thus: “Great value in this refreshing, lightly oaked Niagara Chardonnay. Balanced, wet stone minerality, medium plus acidity, medium body. Blood orange zest, green apple and a hint of vanilla bean.” – 89.
Red
Echeverria Gran Reserva Pinot Noir 2018, from Chile follows up on the 2017 Vintage which sold for $15.95 and carried a 93 from Britain’s decanter.com. Of the 2018, the winery tells us to expect “aromas of strawberries, black cherries and raspberries with hints of chocolate and mocha. The palate is round and soft, with refreshing acidity and balanced fruit.”
La Posta Estela Armando Bonarda 2018,$15.95, is a bargain from Argentina made by Laura Catena. Usually Bonarda is a workhorse grape, but this has been elevated to a much higher level and with every vintage it has been consistently good and well received by critics who praise its ripe and juicy red and black fruit and the accompanying notes of herb and leather, mocha and cedar. It is round and ultimately pleasurable.
Falernia Gran Reserva Syrah 2016, $16.95, also from Chile, is 100% Syrah. It is full-bodied but smooth and balanced, with blackberry fruit leading in to suggestions of spice and oak. It would be great with steak, and would perform very well as something to savour after dinner.
Chombart & Speck Cave Mystère Merlot 2018, $18.95, from France is the product of a collaboration between Chateau Lamothe du Haut and the Speck family of Henry of Pelham in Niagara. Niagara writer Michael Pinkus calls this wine ”a real coup. Supple dark fruit: cassis, blackberry, balanced with cedar, oak and anise… the fruit is juicy and plump while the acidity keeps it from jumping into the California lane for Merlot. Opens quickly and within 20 minutes you get a pretty lush wine. Consume now to 2027 (****)”
