WINE ALL THE TIME: Red, white, rosé... and orange?

While our options in wine are numerous, they have tended initially to fall into the categories of either Red or White. In recent years, those categories have expanded to include Rosé, the popularity of which is significant.

Now, some in the wine industry are suggesting that the next big style will be Orange. Presently, the selection is very small, with the occasional Orange wine finding its way to the Vintages shelves.

I first heard of Orange wines about six years ago at the City of Riesling Conference in Traverse City, Michigan. There, a panel of winemakers talked about experimenting with skin-fermented white wine.

While in the country of Georgia, they have been making “orange wines” for thousands of years, in Western Europe it is only in the past 30 years or so that some winemakers have decided to try their hand at making wine in this style.

Traditional practice has been for red wines to be made by extracting colour and tannin from the grape skins during fermentation. Typically, with white wines, there is virtually no skin contact. The grapes are crushed, the juice pressed from the skins, and collected separately.

In fact, a white wine can be made from red grapes, just by eliminating time on the skins. This is often the case in Champagne, where one category is “Blanc de Noirs.” Made from red grapes, the wine in appearance, is little different from one made exclusively from white grapes or “Blanc de Blancs.”

Just as white wines can vary significantly depending on the various processes a winemaker can follow, orange wines can go from a pale colour to a deep amber, and the character can go from simple to quite complex.

Making an orange wine involves fermenting white grapes on their skins for as little as a few days to a number of months. This changes not only colour but impact and flavour.

Accustomed as we are to the relatively “clean” impact of white wines, you may find it an adjustment to drink orange wine. In particular, there is the texture, as the wines often will carry some tannin, giving a bit of a tart impact. In my experience, there is also a perception of more depth than we normally associate with white wines.

There are actually so few orange wines available, that we really can’t generalize too much about their character. Basically, it is a category where the traits of white wine and red wine intersect. This may give them some versatility in food pairing, as you could consider trying an orange wine with dishes usually complemented by reds.

Many Ontario wineries, including Tawse, Marynissen, and Southbrook make an orange wine, but they would have to be ordered from the winery.

There is but one orange wine to be found at the great Northern Road store in the Vintages organic section. the Rigal Gros Manseng 2021 Vin Orange, $18.95. The fact that 6 bottles remain though it was released back in November might make us question just how great a fad orange wine is at this point. It comes from southwest France, and “Gros Manseng” is the grape. Aside from the tannins on the finish, there is a delicacy of flavour here with a very clean entry. With this golden wine, a touch of peach, a sense of orange citrus may be perceived, and the flavours linger significantly. In all tasty and intriguing.

The Wine Rack stores carry the Audacity of Thomas G Bright Orange, $18.95. It is definitely dry and crisp, with a smooth round mouthfeel leading up to a mildly tannic finish. Here, we find a deeper shade of gold verging on the orange spectrum. It has a bigger textural impact and carries more fruit. It is a slightly bigger wine and would certainly pair with poultry or pork.

The next big trend? We’ll see. Though Rosé wines have been around for a very long time, too, it took a while for them to develop the popularity they enjoy today. There is certainly room for orange wines, but the adjustment in our tastes might be a bit more challenging.

Vintages Releases

Starting in May, Vintages will have only one in-store release per month. There will also be an online release, but the wines there tend on average to be slightly more expensive.

Here are some suggestions from the May 11 in-store release.

White

Castello d'Alba White 2022, $14.95, from Portugal is made from grapes we don’t usually encounter - Rabigato, Gouveio, and Viosinho.  Decanter magazine suggests “lovely lime, banana, coconut and attractive undertones of wet stones, cut grass and honeysuckle. Zesty on the palate, very long”.- 93. 

Saint-Roch Côtes du Roussillon Corbarol 2022, $17.95, is made by Domaine Lafage, a tremendously reliable producer. They call it “fresh and crunchy”, while Vintages refers to notes of “lemon zest and honeysuckle, and hints of baked brioche on the finish”.

Tenuta  Luzzolini Madre Goccia 2022, $22.95, from Calabria blends Chardonnay with Greco Bianco. The winery explains that the ‘Madre Goccia’ –‘Mother drop’ in English – displays “a floral complex and soft scent with light notes of dried apricot and exotic fruit. The flavour is broad and pleasantly fruity” The generous Italian wine writer, Luca Maroni, gives it a 96.

Rosé

Porcupine Ridge Rosé 2023, $14.95.  This is a popular line of South African wine. The winery explains that “the cherry character of the nose follows through onto the palate with flavours of red apple, pink grapefruit and nuances of blood orange, watermelon and poached pear. The wine is made in a luscious, round and fruity style, yet is elegant and focused, with vibrant, yet integrated, acidity. Wild strawberries, pomegranate and subtle hints of cloves and star anise linger on a clean, dry finish.”

Marrenon Rosace Rosé 2022, $15.95. Of the previous vintage, the Wine Enthusiast wrote, a beautiful bouquet and body, marked by plush cherries, strawberries, thyme and lavender present a focused, balanced and delicious wine.” -91.

Red

Magus 6 Meses Crianza Tempranillo 2020, $13.95, from Spain displays dark fruit –black cherry, blackberry – on a medium/full body, finishing with soft tannins and licorice, according to chuckbyers.blogspot -93.

Feudo Croce NyktósAglianico 2022, $15.95, from Puglia has a “pleasant spicy nose, with aromas of black pepper, licorice, roses, dark plums and cherries. Dry and harmonious, savoury finish.” - 90. (Decanter World Wine Awards, 2023)

Fabre Montmayou Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2021, $18.95, from Argentina, is minty and refreshing, this has nuanced oak, bramble and blackcurrant pastille flavours and sculpted tannins. – 91. Timatkin.com.