We are well into Dry January, and the movement to forego alcohol for this month certainly has momentum; however, the Federal government and the LCBO aren’t making it easy.
There remains a full month until February 15 in the tax holiday removing the 13% tax on beer and wine. At the same time, the LCBO is in the middle of its post-New Year’s focus on “Smart Buys”, or less expensive wines, which should continue into February.
Even if you are committed to remaining dry for the month, it might still be tempting to make some purchases that you will be able to enjoy once the corkscrews have been taken out of whatever jail they are languishing in and you have had time to dust off your wine glasses.
There are so many good wines at immensely tempting prices that it would make sense to think about the types of wine you prefer and zero in on those. These may also include wines you have enjoyed before and know you will appreciate again.
The LCBO Great Northern Road store also has catalogues for the January 4 and 18 releases which will give you more information on the wines.
Here are just some for you to consider.
Chardonnay can come in various styles and cost very little or hundreds of dollars, the latter being true of Burgundies such as Chassagne-Montrachet. At one time Chardonnay had become so popular in the U.S. that there was an eventual backlash with people wanting something different – it gave rise to the term ABC –Anything But Chardonnay.
More recently, the pendulum has swung back, at least to the middle. Available in Vintages are several bargain options. From Australia there’s the Hesketh Lost Weekend Chardonnay 2023, $15.45, said to be juicy and full of stone fruit (peach/apricot) and citrus flavour and having a a lovely supple texture – 91 winepilot.com.
South Africa’s Wild House Chardonnay 2024, $13.00, benefits from aging on its lees – which creates great texture- as well as having a 20% aging on oak which adds a toasty note to the ripe fruit before a crisp finish.
If you are partial to Chards from California, Trim Chardonnay 2022, $17.40, is creamy and carries flavours of “fresh Asian pear, green apple, mandarin orange and vanilla bean”, finishing dry, - 91-Wine Enthusiast.
Available on-line is Germany’s Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler Riesling 2022, $14.60. Spend $50 and delivery is free to the store of your choice. It is off-dry in the classic Mosel style; Vintages suggests that “it offers tangy notes of grapefruit marmalade, white peach, and orange zest, all wrapped in a ribbon of brilliant acidity.” It is that typical citrus finish that perfectly balances the moderate sweetness that precedes it.
Italy tempts us with many dry white wines. Each region often has its own example for which it is known. Check out Marche’s Velenosi Querciantica Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico 2023, $13.90, which vinous.com tells us is classically dry and beautifully balanced, with a lush texture. Expect tart orchard fruits, good acidity and mineral notes at the end. -89.
The trademark white of the Veneto made from the Garganega grape is Soave. Brigaldara Soave 2023, $13, is a mid-weight white in a traditional chewy style. It has “orchard fruit, jasmine and a twist of tangerine peel, marking a nobly bitter finish of excellent persistence. Very good drinking.” – 92 jamessuckling.com
“Gavi” is the white associated with the Piedmont and is made from the Cortese grape. Canti Gavi 2023, $15, offers crisp citrus and green apple fruit, finishing with an almond note and some minerality. This wine should hold and be a perfect summer sipper.
Not to be ignored is the dry Spanish Beronia Rueda Verdejo 2023, $13.90. While Beronia is known for its great value Rioja reds, this Vegan white has herbal notes and tangy apple-like flavours with some length on the finish. -90 –jamessuckling.com
There are many more great choices, so grab the catalogues and check them out in the store.
As many good whites as there are, there are even more value reds on offer.
Tragolargo Monastrell 2022, $13.90, is from Spain. In France, “Monastrell” is Mourevèdre, a popular grape in the south, where it is usually part of a blend. This is a light red from moderately young vines (13 years old). Expect it to be “clean and expressive with notes of licorice, wild berries and herbs, a medium-bodied palate with very good freshness and balance, purity of fruit and a long, dry finish.” - 91+ robertparker.com.
It is unusual to find a Syrah from Sicily, but the Orestiadi Molino A Vento Syrah 2022, $13 certainly begs our attention. The “Bottle of Italy” site has this to say: “On the nose, it opens with a complex and seductive bouquet of ripe red fruits, sweet spices, and a light touch of vanilla. On the palate, the wine is robust and structured, with well-integrated tannins that perfectly balance the acidity. Notes of black fruits, pepper, and chocolate blend into a persistent and harmonious finish.” The wine also carries a 93 from Italian critic Luca Maroni.
There are producers that I know will always deliver in quality, regardless the price. One is Gabriel Meffre in France’s Rhone region. His Chateau Grand Escalion 2021, $12.10, is consistently good. The 2020 received 90 points, and this should measure up equally. It is considered rich and spicy with ample black berry and cherry fruit. Count on it.
Jeff Carrel is another reliable producer. His Villa Des Anges Cabernet Sauvignon 2022, $12.10, has considerable rich and ripe black cherry and black currant fruit, with accents of tobacco, spice and dried herb. Balanced and textured, it over-delivers by miles, and has a 90 from jebdunnock.com.
Tarapacá Gran Reserva Carmenère 2022, $14.70, is a great example of the grape that had been lost in France and re-discovered in Chile. “Fresh and juicy, with a layer of chrysanthemum and pink peppercorn up front and a plush core of fresh raspberry and plum, with a subtle mineral underpinning and fresh acidity stretching out the finish around a note of cocoa powder.” – 91 winespectator.com.
Paringa Shiraz 2022, $14, from Australia, is “beautifully fruited and inviting, the wine shows blackberry, thyme, hazelnut and warm spice aromas on the nose, followed by a fruit-expressive palate displaying succulent fruit intensity, backed by silky texture and fine tannins, finishing lingering and supple.” -92 wneorbit.co.nz.
Check out these and the other fine selections soon. There are wines that are smart buys even in the $25 and $30 plus range, including the San Silvestro Barolo at $30.40 – it is currently the lowest priced Barolo at the LCBO enjoys a 93 from the Wine Enthusiast.
Go get ‘em.