By now, most of us here are aware that the LCBO has now closed its Station Mall outlet and moved it to the Churchill Plaza. Like the store at the Station Mall, the new outlet will not be carrying Vintages products, aside from what are known as “Vintages Essentials”.
For those living in the East End, the change is welcome, but for people downtown or in the West End, it could be a significant inconvenience.
People who enjoy shopping the Vintages shelves, which are populated with new product every two weeks, will still have to make the trek up the highway to the Great Northern Road Store. That said, if you aren’t averse to shopping online and the wine you are seeking is available for shipment, any order meeting the minimum $50 threshold will be shipped to the store of your choice for free. Designate the new store as your chosen destination, and avoid the traffic heading up the road.
In addition to the downtown store “moving on”, you will obviously notice that there are large swaths of empty shelves that used to be populated by American wines and spirits. Some may miss their favourites, but all of us ought to be able to adjust.
A friend who imports wine mentioned that at a store opening in Toronto this week, someone suggested that instead of removing the product, the LCBO could add an additional $5 a bottle to American wines and spirits, with the money going to a fund to help businesses impacted by the tariffs.
The idea has merit; however, the buy Canadian sentiment may well be strong enough to have us consuming anything but American booze for a long time to come. The same importer referenced the boycott of French wines back in 1995/1996 in response to nuclear testing in the Pacific, a boycott from which the French industry took a long time to recover.
When it comes to most varietals that we associate with the U.S. - Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, etc. - we can find their counterparts from other countries. With Zinfandel, it’s a slightly different story. There are only two Zinfandel red wines now listed at the LCBO, and they are both from Italy.
By the way, Zinfandel is and always has been a red grape. For a while back in the 1980s or so, it fell out of fashion, but instead of ripping up the vines as some were doing, one producer, Sutter Home, minimized skin contact, stopped fermentation while the wine was still sweet, and created “White Zinfandel” a blush wine. It became hugely popular and is still available, but when tasted changed, the red came back into fashion, and fortunately, there were still enough vines for it to flourish.
But, back to Zinfandel and Italy. For the longest time, no one knew where Zinfandel came from. It wasn’t until relatively recently though genetic testing that it has been determined that it is identical to Crljenak Kaštelanski, a Croatian grape…and so is Primitivo grown in Puglia in Italy.
There are several examples of Primitivo in the LCBO, some regularly listed and others in Vintages, where they come and go throughout the year. Are they the same as an American Zinfandel? At best, you could say that they are related and share similarities. Winemaking techniques and “terroir”, however, can result in significant distinctions.
As for “Terroir”, think Location, Location, Location. Differences in climate, soil types etc. will result in differences in the wine, even if the very same clone of a varietal and the very same rootstock are used in both cases.
In the end, Primitvos and Italian wines going by the Zinfandel name are worth trying. Orso Bruno is widely available, and The Wanted Zin is at the Great Northern Road store. Orso Bruno, $10.95, is 13.5 % alcohol by volume and carries 11 grams of sugar per litre. The Wanted Zin, $15.25, is 14.5 % alcohol and has 14 grams of sugar per litre.
Orso Bruno delivers with supple bright fruit reminiscent of black cherry and blackberry, with earthy touches of leather and coffee on the finish, along with a slight tannic burr and relatively firm grip. Hard to beat at this price.
In its turn, The Wanted Zinfandel also leads with abundant spicy berry fruit and the impression of ripe plum. It has a juicy character. Bringing up the finish are sensations of chocolate, prune, and brioche, all capped with light notes of tannin.
Check these two out, and then begin to explore the Primitivos.
Vintages
This weekend we are between the March 1 release already on the shelves and the release arriving on March 15.
I continue to despair over the absence of Ontario wines allocated to our store. An LCBO rep in Toronto suggested that more would be coming our way, but it has yet to materialize. Given the new reality with our neighbours, one would think that there is an opportunity here to promote and purchase our homegrown wines.
The March 1 and 15 releases featured a dozen Ontario reds, of which we are receiving none. We do just slightly better with whites, but you can almost predict which ones we will get, as they are almost always from the same few producers. Bah Humbug.
That said, consider some of these for your enjoyment.
March 1
White
Flat Rock Good Kharma Chardonnay, $17.95, from Niagara, takes its name from the concept of supporting people in need via Feed Ontario. This good, well-made Chard presents orchard fruit – apple, pear- with grace notes of tropical fruit and cantaloupe. Vanilla and creamy butter are balanced off with citrus accents on the finish.
Megalomaniac Narcissist Riesling 2023, $19.95 is another Niagara success. Decanter magazine exclaims, “the 2023 Narcissist Riesling is a graceful off-dry style with aromas of stone fruit, lemons and petrol. Flavours are consistent with lovely notes of peaches, spring blossoms and savoury herbs. Well-integrated brisk acidity carries the wine and creates a juicy character. Outstanding concentration with minerality and a lingering finish - deliciousness comes to mind. – 92.”
Domaine de la Rochette Sauvignon Blanc 2023, $14.95, is from the Loire region in France. The Wine Enthusiast tells us “this traditional-styled Loire Sauvignon Blanc sings. The wine opens with a nose of crab apple, kumquat zest, orange and white blossom. Round in texture, hints of dried field herbs and pear emerge on the palate and dive into a lemon citrus finish. Best Buy. Score - 90.
Casa Fèvre Espino Reserva Especial Chardonnay 2023, $16.95, is a gem from Chile made by the admired Fèvre house in Burgundy’s Chablis region, known for its unoaked wines. Fresh and ripe peach and pear character is accompanied by citrus and mineral accents. It is medium-bodied with upfront fruit and a saline note on the lingering finish. Not quite as acidic as a French Chablis, it is a good alternative for half the price.(If you wish, you can compare it with the Domaine du Columbier Chablis 2023, available for $32.95!)
Red
Rioja Vega Crianza 2020, $15.95, is a Spanish Tempranillo which is aged slightly less than a Reserva. Expect to find that “this dark ruby-colored wine has a nose of ripe cherry and caramel. It is bright at first sip, offering velvety tannins and pomegranate, red-plum, milk-chocolate and aniseed flavors. The finish is marked with a note of candied orange peel. Score - 91.” (Mike DeSimone, Wine Enthusiast)
Lungarotti L'Um Umbria Sangiovese/Merlot 2022, $17.95, is a well-made wine from Umbria’s arguably best producer. “Roses, violets, incense and spice introduce the 2022 Rosso L'Um. It is pleasantly sweet inside, with crisp wild berry fruits and zesty acidity to balance. The 2022 finishes fresh with a wild berry resonance and chalky minerality that adds a lovely inner tension. The L'Um Rosso is a remarkably fresh blending of Sangiovese and Merlot. Drinking window: 2024-2028. Score - 90. (Eric Guido, vinous.com)
Kir-Yianni Cuvée Villages Xinomavro 2021, $18, is an excellent Greek red. We are told to look for “intriguing notes of baked fruit and fragrant marzipan followed by cherry, strawberry and raspberry. Firm tannins balanced with soft acidity. Score - 93. (International Wine & Spirit Competition, 2024)
Ji Ji Ji Gen Fuerza Tranquila Malbec/Pinot Noir 2022, $20.95, is an intriguingly different blend from Argentina, with the two grapes playing an equal role. “It has a light to medium-bodied palate and fine tannins, aromatic and floral through a carbonic maceration of the 100% full clusters and bottled unoaked to preserve the fruit and freshness.” - 92. Robertparker.com
March 15
Coming next week are the following:
White
Planeta La Segreta Grillo 2023, $19.95, features one of Sicily’s better-known white varietals. “It has a light to medium-bodied palate and fine tannins, aromatic and floral through a carbonic maceration of the 100% full clusters and bottled unoaked to preserve the fruit and freshness. It's tasty, fresh and refreshing, very pleasant.” – 92. robertparker.com.
Domaine de la Colline Muscadet Sèvre et Maine 2022, $20.95, is a perfect wine for seafood. ‘’100% Melon de Bourgogne. Succulent lemon aromatics underpinned by a mouthwatering core of seashell and saline minerals; elegant and concentrated with a plush texture and a long lasting finish. Score - 95. (Decanter World Wine Awards, 2023)”
Le Clos Jordanne Jordan Village Chardonnay 2021, $30, is a beautifully crafted Niagara white crafted by Thomas Bachelder. Internationally recognized, it is “100% Chardonnay. Alluring white flowers, lemons and stone fruit enhanced by sweet vanilla pod oak. Flowing with mineral exuberance, flinty and crisp, with a lovely tension and charming finish. Score - 95. (Decanter World Wine Awards, 2024)
Red
Morande Selección de Viñedos Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2021, $15.95, is new to Vintages from Chile. Look for a wine that is “racy and fresh fruit with more red berries than black. Strawberries, redcurrants and a mint and eucalyptus note. Juicy and savory with a medium body and delicious salinity.” – 91. jamessuckling.com
Gentili Matero 2022, $17.95, is an inexpensive “SuperTuscan” featuring a blend that is half Sangiovese with equal parts each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, along with the lesser known Tuscan grape, Colorino finishing the blend. Gambero Rosso says it shows “bold raspberry, cherry, and wild fruit. Easy drinking, approachable.” – It earned a very respectable two out of three glasses.
Trullo di Pezza Mezzapezza Primitivo 2021, $19.95, brings us back to the Zinfandel alternatives. “This is dark-fruited with notes of chocolate, chestnuts, lots of dried herbs and spices. Full-bodied but with juicy acidity, giving it fresh tension. Tannins are firm and lightly chewy with vivid blue fruit character in the middle.” – 91. jamessuckling.com.
Glenelly Glass Collection Syrah 2021, $19.95 is a South African Gem not to be missed. This is the property of the former owner of Pichon Comtesse de Lalande, one of the best “second growths” of Bordeaux, and the wine shows its pedigree. We are told that “this is the best release yet of a Syrah under the Glass Collection label, offering remarkable value for money. Clove, thyme and white pepper scents segue into a palate of barbecued meat and tapenade, complemented by red cherry and blackberry fruit intensity. - 93. timatkin.com.