This Saturday brings the federal tax holiday to an end . . . as far as we know.
With the unstable economic circumstances we are experiencing, thanks to threats and tariffs, who can say what we will find going forward; but, if it is important to you, the 13 per cent savings are yours for the taking until Sunday.
At the same time, with tariffs looming, we may well see American beverages pulled from our shelves. With the possible exception of Costco in the United States, the LCBO is the biggest single buyer of alcohol, anywhere. Dropping American booze would make a significant statement . . . how impactful it would be remains to be seen.
In B.C., the idea is to drop only alcohol produced in Republican states. California wine would still be permitted, but not Kentucky Bourbon, for example.
As for B.C., we have an interesting situation. The last two vintages, the first hampered by smoke taint and fire, the second by colossal freezing damage, have been minuscule. I believe the wineries have been permitted to purchase fruit and/or juice from elsewhere to make their wines, for the time being.
Where would they be buying? Likely Washington and Oregon, and even California. Even if American wines were banned, the stuff in the B.C. bottles might still largely wave the old red, white and blue.
We may have our favourite products from the U.S., but as far as wine is concerned, I am confident that everyone should be able to find other wines that they will be happy with, though it could take some searching.
Frankly, the hunt might be quite enjoyable.
For the most part, stylistically, I think that wines from South America and Australia, and even South Africa would generally provide wines with characteristics we associate with West Coast American wines. At the same time, it could be the perfect time to reconsider the very good options from Europe. They will be different in style, likely, but they should be excellent, period. A good opportunity to check them out.
And don’t ignore Ontario. The best wines we produce will rival excellent wines from Bordeaux and Burgundy and we have an excellent selection in our stores, both on the general listing shelves and in Vintages. Be brave, try them.
I was asked if I could recommend a non-American Chardonnay that tasted EXACTLY like the J. Lohr Riverstone Chardonnay. The LCBO tells us that “it's bursting with citrus, grilled nuts, vanilla and toast flavours.
The Wine Enthusiast suggests that "the palate starts with a tantalizing acidity and stony texture, giving edge to the richer cream and vanilla-meringue flavours that arise by the finish.”
That would be my starting point. I would check out the chardonnays from other regions, to see if any of the flavour profiles compared. This would be the same approach I would take with other varietals, too; for example, Cabernet Sauvignon or Pinot Noir, - that is, I would check the profile of the wine I like, and then seek out options that seem to fit.
To be honest, there are so many other interesting wines from all over the world – particularly from the south of France, from all over Italy, Spain and Portugal, along with South America and Australia, that I wouldn’t stress myself in looking for a perfect match.
Getting back to the Chardonnay question specifically, here are some suggestions for your consideration, if you’re swearing off American wines.
One Pound Per Acre Chardonnay –Australia $8.85 (regular list)
Worth trying even just once. This Chardonnay celebrates its history, one pound being the initial price paid for an acre of its land. It is pale yellow with a green tinge and aromas of tropical fruit, citrus and stone fruit. You’ll find it medium-bodied and fresh, crisp and balanced.
Australia’s Mountadam Five-Fifty Chardonnay 2021 $16.50. “It's elegantly expressed on the nose, showing ripe stone fruit, Gala apple and nougat aromas, followed by a succulent palate offering smooth texture and well-pitched acidity. Attractively composed and styled, making it delightfully drinkable. At its best: now to 2026. Score - 92.” (Sam Kim, wineorbit.co.nz, May 2024)
When it eventually returns to Vintages, Escudo Rojo Chardonnay from Chile is excellent - made by Rothschild, I buy it every time. Around $18 a bottle.
From Ontario, Inniskillin Montague Vineyard is top-notch – about $27, available at Wine Rack stores. Trius Chardonnay, $15.90, is described by Vintages as a “rich, full-bodied white with layer upon layer of aromas and flavours. The nose is clean and fruity, with lemon and apple notes mingling with hints of toasted oak and roasted nuts. The palate is extra dry and harmonious, with notes of vanilla, citrus, plum and spice showing elegantly.”
When it is back in stock, South Africa’s Cathedral Cellar Chard is a winner – about $17. “Fresh tangy and stylishly oaked, with citrus and peach flavours and supporting acidity. The Cape's answer to a Mâcon Villages. Drink date: 2022-2026. Score - 91.” (timatkin.com, South Africa Special Report 2022).
Chile’s Emiliana Signos de Origen Chardonnay/Roussanne 2022, $19.40, is currently available in Vintages. “Really fine and mineral with some sour cream and fresh pineapples. A hint of green spice and green plums. Subtle on the palate with an intense but medium-to-full body with a fine, phenolic grip. Tense and delicious. 94% chardonnay and 6% roussanne. Drink now [through 2028+]. Score - 94.” (Zekun Shuai, jamessuckling.com, April 24, 2023)
Emiliana Novas Gran Reserva Chardonnay 2022, $15.60, is also good. “Fresh and mineral yet creamy with a hint of lemon pastry. The bright, medium-bodied palate unfurls fresh acidity that cuts through the creamy mouthfeel. From organically grown grapes. Vegan. Drink now [through 2025]. Score - 92.” (Zekun Shuai, jamessuckling.com, April 24, 2023)
February 1 –February 15 Vintages
Many good choices remain available from the February 1 Vintages release, and there will be more as of Saturday. Prices quoted will rise by about 13% on Sunday, February 16, but the prices will be about as good as we can hope. By the way, when we consider the difference in the dollar, our prices at the LCBO are generally better or competitive with what you could reasonably expect in the U.S., and for the most part are better than you will find elsewhere in Canada.
Already on the shelves are two good Italian whites, the Masseria Surani Fiano 2023, $16.70. The Wine Enthusiast tells us that “the nose is fresh and brings both sweet and savory aromas, of pear, lemon, lime, white peach, jasmine and Mediterranean herbs and brush. The palate presents the denser sweetness of honey and cooked apples and pears, but more lemon preserves that fresh feel.” – 89.
Equally attractive is the Paternoster Vulcano Falanghina 2022, $17.60, acknowledged in turn by the Wine Enthusiast as “Lemon and orange zest roll onto a palate that's bright but dense with more citrus and the sweetness of almond paste, before a salty lick of a rock on the finish. Best Buy. Score – 91.”
In reds, look for the Argentinian Manos Negras Stone Soil Malbec 2021, 17.75, which the Decanter panel universally praised, remarking on its “gorgeous fruit, and a modern reductive character, youthful but with great energy. Fresh and just lovely:” – 95.
Emilana Novas Stellar Selection Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah/Carignan 2022 $15.60, from Chile, has “touches of black pepper and minerals to the rich black and red berries. Herbs and violets, too. Medium- to full-bodied on the palate with juicy fruit. Excellent tension and freshness, with fine tannins and a bright finish. Long and complex. 48% cabernet sauvignon, 33% syrah and 19% carignan. From organically grown grapes.” – 94, jamessuckling .com
Coming this weekend are more good values, albeit better buys Saturday than they will be thereafter. I anticipate the following will be in our Great Northern road store, but haven’t been able to confirm. By the way, the sticker prices on the shelves do not show the tax reduction. You will find the prices reduced at the till.
Portugal’s Curvos Loureiro 2023, $11.80, shows “grapefruit and apple peel on the nose, with touches of dill, fresh herbs and honeysuckle. Fleshy palate, with a mineral finish. Score - 92. Decanter.
From South Africa consider Alvi's Drift Signature Sauvignon Blanc 2023, $13.10, which Vintages explains is a “zippy unoaked Savvy [which] evokes crunchy green fruit and garden veggies.“ – Gold, Veritas Wine Awards.
In reds, Château Camplong Grande Réserve Corbières 2023, $12.30, from France,s Languedoc impressed jamessuckling.com, which calls it “a fruity, juicy and velvety blend of mourvedre and syrah. Aromas of dark cherries, cassis and sweet spices mingle on the nose. It's medium-bodied with silky tannins. Supple and juicy with a pulpy character. Vivid finish.” – 90.
Suckling also approves of Italy’s Nestore Bosco Montelpulciano d'Abruzzo 2020, $14.40: “Enticing nose of mild spice and black fruit, together with a dried-leafy edge. Full-bodied, with a relaxed, fleshy mouthfeel through the mid-palate, the fine tannins flexing a little muscle towards the end, giving a long, controlled finish. Not particularly complex, but nicely structured.” – 92.
La Belle Marguerite Reserva Malbec 2021, $14.55, is yet another Argentinian gem which is very tempting - “A radiant, crisp, and refreshing wine with delicious red fruit and a subtle ethereal character that, first of all, is not easy to find in South American malbec, and even less so in the warm east of Mendoza, a place whose reds are rather rustic. This one stands up to say just the opposite, and to lead the way” -94 guiadoescorchados.cl.
There are many, many more wines to consider. Check the shelves, look at the Vintages catalogue, and buy.
Stokely Creek’s popular Wine Tasting Dinner is Saturday, March 1 at 5:30 PM. The evening will feature wines from Canada, Spain, Italy, France, South Africa, and the United States, each expertly paired with a dinner of Spanish Tapas. The tasting begins at 5:30 in the Dayskier Cabin. I will be introducing the wines.
Pre-registration is required for the evening which is limited to 40 participants.
The cost for this fun evening of dinner and wine is $80 per person. Overnight guests are welcome to register paying $30 per person for the wines. Call 705-649-3421 for more information.